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This is the documentation vertex for a 3D printer build run started in
July 2013.
Vital links and major log entries can be made here (by anyone, as
always). Detailed logs should be made either in a user's own log (which
should be linked from here). It'd be a good idea to consolidate what was
learned and place it on this page in the end.
## Goal
Get a few people together that want their own 3DP and build 'em.
The primary point is to get working, somewhat reliable machines running
in order to focus on using the printers. This may be a bit different
than many hackerspace builds that might focus on improving the 3DP
designs.
## Plan
1. What model(s) to build?
2. Find mentors. People that can help when we get stuck or review what
we've done and suggest corrections.
3. Create BOM, aka parts list
1. Catalog what parts we already have at HacDC.
2. Find supplier(s) or kits for all other parts.
4. Set some form of gathering schedule or build timeline. (a little
structure is good)
### Which model?
#### Deltas
- Rostock / Max
Kossel seems to be an improvement
- Kossel (original)
obsolete
- Kossel Mini
current Kossel
Looking at linear bearings / towers.. may need to pull something from
the OpenBeam version
Note: 'Mini' is a misnomer, scale it as you like.
- OpenBeam Kossel Pro
in Kickstart phase
David's top pick but Terrance (openbeam guy) understandably hasn't
released a bom yet
#### Cartesian
- i3
current Mendel design
- Mendel Max
larger, beam-styled Mendel
#### Biomechanical
- Simpson
Uses only rotary bearings, like biological entities such as you
Some design concerns; wear at base rotation points, accuracy on reel
drives
### Mentors / Guides
Unbeknowst to them, considering asking Julia and/or mirage.
## Links
- <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/deltabot>
- <http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel>
## People
David McInnis aka [User:gatohaus](User:gatohaus "wikilink")
-- general geek, minor user-level 3DP skill
-- want my very own 3DP at home
-- goal: reliable printing
## Log
2013.07.07 - Started page for 3DP build run.
[Category:3D Printing](Category:3D_Printing "wikilink")
[Category:Previous Projects](Category:Previous_Projects "wikilink")

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This is the documentation vertex for 3D Repair started Feb 26th 2022
Vital links and major log entries can be made here (by anyone, as
always).
## Goal
Repair Ultimaker, TAZ Mini, Monoprice Ultimate 2 and
The primary point is to get working, somewhat reliable machines running
in order to focus on using the printers. This may be a bit different
than many hackerspace builds that might focus on improving the 3DP
designs.
## People
Tayeb Zaidi aka [User:tark](User:tark "wikilink")
Matt Stafford
Kevin Cole
## Log
2022.02.26: Matt, Tayeb, and Kevin at the space initiating
upgrades/repairs
To Purchase for Ultimaker -- Extruder and Bowden tube to replace current
assembly To Purchase for Monoprice -- N/A
General 3D Printer Supplies: Filament, and airtight filament containers
General Supplies: Binder clips, razor blades, drivers for screwdrivers
(3-4 regular, 3-4 miniature), flat side wire cutters, lubricant
[Category:3D Printing](Category:3D_Printing "wikilink")
[Category:Previous Projects](Category:Previous_Projects "wikilink")

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# 3D Printer Thurdays
Every Thursday from 6pm - 10pm a group of 3D printer enthusiasts meet to
work on the 3D printers and print stuff. Drop by and check it out.
## Our current efforts include:
- Upgrading the Prusa Mendel to a Mendel 3
- Extruder Improvements for the Rostock Max V2
- Triage/Improvements for the 2 Mendel variants Julia has recently
brought to live here
- Build the recently donated LulzBot ... when it gets here
## Drop by And...
- Pick our brains about 3D printing tips and construction know how
- Help us build printers
- Donate your printer (3D or Otherwise=useful parts)
- 3D print something
[Category:Events](Category:Events "wikilink")

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- [PLA Filament, 1.75mm](http://seemecnc.com/collections/filament/pla)
- [PLA Filament, 1.75mm. Low cost, available at Microcenter, reasonably
well established track record at
HacDC.](http://www.microcenter.com/product/434401/175mm_White_PLA_3D_Printer_Filament_-_1kg_Spool_(22_lbs))
- [PLA Filament, 3mm, used with old Prusa Mendel 3D
Printer](https://ultimachine.com/content/pla-3mm-white-1kg-spool)
- [PLA Polishing
Solvent](http://www.amazon.com/s/?field-keywords=tetrahydrofuran)
<!-- -->
- [Prusa Mendel HotEnd - Choose 0.35mm
nozzle.](http://www.makergear.com/products/operators-pack)
- [Generic stepper motor
drivers.](http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Edition-Pololu-Stepper-Driver-for-RepRap-3D-printers-RAMPS-Sanguinololu-/321166002455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac6fc4917)
<!-- -->
- [PEI print
surface](http://www.amazonsupply.com/polyetherimide-off-white-standard-tolerance-pei0113/dp/B00CPRDDLY/ref=sr_1_2?sr=1-2&qid=1392920847&filterBy.feature_twelve_browse-bin=6523581011)
described at [SeeMeCNC
forums](http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=4336).
[Category:PA_SUPPLIES](Category:PA_SUPPLIES "wikilink")
[Category:PrusaMendel](Category:PrusaMendel "wikilink")
[Category:RostockMax](Category:RostockMax "wikilink")
[Category:3D_Printing](Category:3D_Printing "wikilink")

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ins3DMinipronsolequick.txt - May 23, 2019 version The Mini is for
printing with rubbery filament. This covers common situations; if
something else is encountered consult the full instructions
(ins3DMinipronsole.txt) Q.1 In MATE Terminal: cura (program to convert
surface representation(.stl) to 3D printer instructions(.gcode)) Q.2
When Cura control display appears click on Machine (at top) Q.3 Click on
LulzBot Mini Q.4 At Fill - Fill density (%): enter desired value (i.e.,
20 for prototypes) Q.5 At Speed and temperature - Printing temperature
(C): 220 Q.6 At Speed and temperature - Bed temperature (C): 70 Q.7 At
Support - Support type: select None, Touching buildplate, or Everywhere
(depends on object to be printed;if in doubt select Everywhere) Q.8 At
Support - Platform adhesion type: select None, Brim, or Raft (depends on
object; if in doubt select Brim) Q.9 Click on LOAD MODEL (top center of
Cura window) Q.10 Click on filetoprint.stl (scroll down if needed; i.e.,
testcube.stl) Q.11 Click on Open (lower right) Q.12 Put glue (purple
glue stick (PVA)) on Mini bed Q.13 Check that there is sufficient
correct (rubbery) filament on reel (the following steps may take a long
time) Q.14 When SAVE GCODE lights up (just to right of LOAD MODEL) click
on it; if a removable drive message does not appear skip Q.15-Q.17 Q.15
Click on Custom file destination Q.16 Click on OK Q.17 Click on hacdc
Q.18 When Save toolpath window appears click on Save (bottom right) Q.19
When Cura states (at bottom) Saved as /home/hacd... (with a large X to
the right) click on tiny x at far right top of Cura (to close Cura) Q.20
scp filetoprint.gcode hacdc@pronterhost.hacdc.org:/home/hacdc (i.e.,
testcube.gcode; send to 3D printer computer) Q.21 At Password: enter
standard password Q.22 If Mini power is off turn it on (rocker switch on
left; red light in switch should come on) Q.23 At 3D printer computer
(keyboard usually on Taz):Ctrl Alt F3 (always hold Ctrl & Alt down when
pressing the other key (F3 (at top) not F & 3)) Q.24 If the monitor
(above Taz on left) shows a final line starting with a printer in use
see full instructions Q.25 If the monitor shows a final line that starts
with offline, MINI, ROSTOCK, or TAZ skip Q.26-Q.28; \[nnnnn@pronterhost
~\]\$ where nnnn is anything skip Q.26-Q.27; anything else other than
pronterhost login: see full instructions Q.26 pronterhost login: hacdc
Q.27 At Password: enter standard password Q.28 pronsole Q.29 connect
/dev/MINI Q.30 load /home/hacdc/filetoprint.gcode (i.e.,
/home/hacdc/testcube.gcode) Q.31 Wait until the monitor states the file
is loaded (may take a while) Q.32 If the final line does not show MINI
in green see full instructions Q.33 print Q.34 Wait for Mini to start
and check that it is printing OK Q.35 Wait - printing large objects can
take an extremely long time ins3DMinipronsolequick.txt - May 23, 2019
version ins3DMinipronsole.txt - May 23, 2019 version The Mini is for
printing with rubbery filament. This is the full detailed instructions
for using the Mini with pronsole (the old way). Many of the steps (i.e.,
M.1-M.4) can usually be skipped; see ins3DMinipronsolequick.txt for
minimal instructions. M.1 Make sure long power strip above microwave
oven is on (orange light on in switch at right end) M.2 Make sure Mini
is plugged in to long power strip M.3 Make sure 3D printer computer
(Dell computer left of Rostock) is plugged in to horizontal power strip
just to left of Taz M.4 Make sure the 3D printer computer monitor (above
& to left of Taz) is plugged into power strip left of Taz M.5 If the
power strip left of Taz is off (no orange light) turn it on ((switch at
wall end; orange light in switch should come on) M.6 If the 3D printer
computer is off (no green light in power button in center of front above
silver Dell logo) press the power button (light should come on) M.7
Check that there is sufficient correct (rubbery) filament on the reel
M.8 If the filament diameter is not written on the reel measure the
diameter (calipers are in the Measurement bin) in several places and
write the average diameter on the reel M.9 At the tabletop computer in
MATE Terminal: cura (program to convert surface representation(.stl) to
3D printer instructions(.gcode)) M.10 If Basic appears at the top left
when the Cura control display appears click on it & skip M.11-M.13 M.11
Click on Expert M.12 Click on Switch to full settings... M.13 At Profile
copy click No M.14 If Quality is not immediately below Basic click on
Basic M.15 Click on Machine (at top) M.16 Click on LulzBot Mini M.17 At
Fill - Fill density (%): enter desired value (i.e., 20 for prototypes)
M.18 At Speed and temperature - Printing temperature (C): 220 M.19 At
Speed and temperature - Bed temperature (C): 70 M.20 At Support -
Support type: select None, Touching buildplate, or Everywhere (depends
on object to be printed;if in doubt select Everywhere) M.21 At Support -
Platform adhesion type: select None, Brim, or Raft (depends on object;
if in doubt select Brim) M.22 At Filament - Diameter (mm): enter
diameter written on reel M.23 Click on LOAD MODEL (top left of image)
M.24 If you don't see the file to print (i.e., testcube.stl) click on
hacdc & scroll down if needed M.25 Click on filetoprint.stl (i.e.,
testcube.stl) M.26 Click on Open (lower right) M.27 Put glue (purple
glue stick (PVA)) on Mini bed (some of the following steps may take a
long time); if you do not want to change a dimension of the object or
make its mirror image skip M.28-M.35 M.28 When the object appears on
right click on it; if you do not want to make a mirror image skip
M.29-M.30 M.29 Click on MIRROR (right icon of 3 at bottom left of image)
M.30 Click on the new icon above MIRROR with the correct reflection
plane (MIRROR Z, MIRROR Y, MIRROR X); if you do not want to change a
dimension skip M.31-M.35 M.31 Click on SCALE (center icon of 3 at bottom
left of image) M.32 At X: enter number to scale x direction by (i.e., .5
to shrink to half width); to scale all directions (x, y, & z) by the
same amount skip M.33-M.35 (Cura will do it automaticly) M.33 Click on
lock to right of Uniform Scale M.34 At Y: enter number to scale y
(depth) by M.35 At Z: enter number to scale z (height) by M.36 When SAVE
GCODE lights up (just to right of LOAD MODEL) click on it; if a
removable drive message does not appear skip M.37-M.39 M.37 Click on
Custom file destination M.38 Click on OK M.39 Click on hacdc M.40 When
Save toolpath window appears enter file name (i.e., testcubeM.gcode)
after Name: (at top) M.41 Click on Save (bottom right) M.42 When Cura
states (at bottom) Saved as /home/hacd... (with a large X to the right)
click on tiny x at far right top of Cura (to close Cura) M.43 scp
filetoprint.gcode hacdc@pronterhost.hacdc.org:/home/hacdc (i.e.,
testcubeM.gcode; send to 3D printer computer; note that it may be
necessary to wait later (at M.68) for this to finish) M.44 At Password:
enter standard password M.45 If Mini power is off (no red light in
rocker switch on left) turn it on (light should come on) M.46 At 3D
printer computer (keyboard usually on Taz):Ctrl Alt F3 (always hold Ctrl
& Alt down when pressing the other key (F3 (at top) not F & 3)) M.47 If
the monitor (above Taz on left) does not show a final line starting with
a printer in use skip M.48-M.52 M.48 Ctrl Alt F2 M.49 If the final line
does not start with a printer in use skip M.50-M.52 M.50 Ctrl Alt F6
M.51 If the final line does not start with a printer in use skip M.52
M.52 Ctrl Alt F5 M.53 If the monitor is blank or only shows a flashing
dash wait a minute M.54 Press Backspace & hold it down if anything is
disappearing from the window M.55 If the monitor shows a final line that
is just a flashing dash press Enter M.56 If the monitor shows a final
line that starts offline, MINI, ROSTOCK, or TAZ skip M.57-M.66;
\[nnnnn@pronterhost ~\]\$ where nnnn is anything skip M.57-M.65;
pronterhost login: skip M.57-M.63 M.57 If either Rostock or Taz printer
is in use \*\*\*STOP\*\*\* & either wait for the printers to finish or
get expert help M.58 Ctrl Alt F1 M.59 Click on 3 dots & \> symbol in
lower left corner of monitor M.60 Move cursor over Leave at lower right
corner of new window M.61 Click on Reboot M.62 Click on OK M.63 When
monitor comes back on (it takes a while):Ctrl Alt F3 M.64 pronterhost
login: hacdc M.65 At Password: enter standard password M.66 pronsole
M.67 connect /dev/MINI M.68 load /home/hacdc/filetoprint.gcode (i.e.,
/home/hacdc/testcubeM.gcode; it may be necessary to wait for the file to
finish transferring from the other computer (step M.43)) M.69 Wait until
the monitor states the file is loaded (may take a while) M.70 If the
final line begins with MINI in green skip M.71-M.81 M.71 disconnect M.72
connect /dev/MINI M.73 Wait a minute M.74 Enter M.75 If the final line
has MINI in green skip M.76-M.81 M.76 Turn off Mini power (rocker switch
on left) M.77 Wait a minute M.78 Turn on Mini power M.79 Wait a couple
minutes M.80 Repeat steps M.72-M.75 M.81 STOP & get expert help M.82
print M.83 Wait for Mini to start and check that it is printing OK M.84
Wait - printing large objects can take an extremely long time
ins3DMinipronsole.txt - May 23, 2019 version ins3DMinimaint.txt - Jan.
2, 2020 Disassembling & unclogging the printhead - Note: All bolts are
hex bolts unless otherwise stated\*\*\*Incomplete preliminary
version\*\*\* U.1 Unplug the Mini U.2 Discnnect the USB cable U.3 Lift
the Mini down onto a table U.4 Remove the 2 bolts from the top of the
printhead mount (above horizontal rod) U.5 Remove the cover U.6
Disconnect the newly exposed connector U.7 While holding the printhead,
remove the 3 big bolts & washers from the back of the mount (printhead
will come off) U.8 Remove 2 or 3 bolts holding motor (motor will come
off) U.9 Remove big nut holding big black gear U.10 Remove washer U.11
Remove bearing U.12 Remove gear (with washers, bearing, & black washer
on it) if possible U.13 Remove bolt holding tiny fan (fan will come off)
U.14 Remove 2 bolts at bottom holding fan together (fan will come off)
U.15 Remove 2 bolts holding base of fan (base will come off) U.16 Remove
2 bolts with washers that hold printhead together (printhead & nuts will
come apart) U.17 Remove any stuck filament from the gear area by pulling
on the filament & turning the gear (if stuck in place) back & forth
Temporary - reverse steps to reassemble; the fan end of the bottom part
goes to the right, the gap in the metal piece goes in the back, the
wires to the hot end go in back to the right, & the "tail" (motor
holder) on the top piece goes to the right

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ins3DRostockpronsolequick.txt - May 24, 2019 version This covers common
situations. If something else is encountered consult the full
instructions (ins3DRostockpronsole.txt) \*\*\*NOTE\*\*\* The Rostock is
currently miscalibrated & prints too small in the x & y directions.
These instructions change the scale to compensate. For better results,
multiply all x & y values by 1.065 when designing the object & skip
lines Q.15-Q.19. Q.1 In MATE Terminal: cura (program to convert surface
representation(.stl) to 3D printer instructions(.gcode)) Q.2 When Cura
control display appears click on Machine (at top) Q.3 Click on DeltaBot
Style (yes, Deltabot not Rostock) Q.4 At Fill - Fill density (%): enter
desired value (i.e., 20 for prototypes) Q.5 At Speed and temperature -
Printing temperature (C): 215 (for PLA) Q.6 At Speed and temperature -
Bed temperature (C): 0 (bed heater not working) Q.7 At Support - Support
type: select None, Touching buildplate, or Everywhere (depends on object
to be printed; if in doubt select Everywhere) Q.8 At Support - Platform
adhesion type: select None, Brim, or Raft (depends on object; if in
doubt select Brim) Q.9 Click on LOAD MODEL (top left of image) Q.10
Click on filetoprint.stl (scroll down if needed; i.e., testcube.stl)
Q.11 Click on Open (lower right) Q.12 Put blue masking tape on Rostock
bed Q.13 Put glue (purple glue stick (PVA)) on tape Q.14 Check that
there is sufficient correct filament on reel (the following steps may
take a long time) Q.15 When the object appears on right click on it Q.16
Click on SCALE (center icon of 3 at bottom left of image) Q.17 Click on
lock to right of Uniform Scale Q.18 X: 1.065 Q.19 Y: 1.065 Q.20 When
SAVE GCODE lights up (just to right of LOAD MODEL) click on it; if a
romovable drive message does not appear skip Q.21-Q.23 Q.21 Click on
Custom file destination Q.22 Click on OK Q.23 Click on hacdc Q.24 When
Save toolpath window appears click on Save (bottom right) Q.25 When Cura
states (at bottom) Saved as /home/hacd... (with a large X to the right)
click on tiny x at far right top of Cura (to close Cura) Q.26 scp
filetoprint.gcode hacdc@pronterhost.hacdc.org:/home/hacdc (i.e.,
testcube.gcode; send to 3D printer) Q.27 At Password: enter standard
password Q.28 If Rostock power is off turn it on (rocker switch above &
to left of F4 (may be hidden under removable bed); display should come
on) Q.29 At 3D printer computer (keyboard usually on Taz): Ctrl Alt F4
(always hold Ctrl & Alt down when pressing the other key (F4 (at top)
not F & 4)) Q.30 If the monitor (above Taz to left) shows a final line
starting with a printer in use see full instructions Q.31 If the monitor
shows a final line that starts with offline, MINI, ROSTOCK, or TAZ skip
Q.32-Q.34; \[nnnnn@pronterhost ~\]\$ where nnnnn is anything skip
Q.32-Q.33; anything else other than pronterhost login: see full
instructions Q.32 pronterhost login: hacdc Q.33 At Password: enter
standard password Q.34 pronsole Q.35 connect /dev/ROSTOCK Q.36 load
/home/hacdc/filetoprint.gcode (i.e., /home/hacdc/testcube.gcode) Q.37
Wait until the monitor states the file is loaded (may take a while) Q.38
If the final line does not show ROSTOCK in green see full instructions
Q.39 print Q.40 Wait for Rostock to start and check to see that it is
printing OK Q.41 Wait - printing large objects can take an extremely
long time ins3DRostockpronsolequick.txt - May 24, 2019 version
ins3DRostockpronsole.txt - May 24, 2019 version This is the full
detailed instructions for using the Rostock with pronsole (the old way).
Many of the steps (i.e., R.1-R.7) can usually be skipped; see
ins3DRostockpronsolequick.txt for minimal instructions. \*\*\*NOTE\*\*\*
The Rostock is currently miscalibrated & prints too small in the x & y
directions. These instructions change the scale to compensate. For
better results, multiply all x & y values by 1.065 when designing the
object & use 1 instead of 1.065 at R.37-R.38 or just skip R.32-R.39. R.1
Make sure long power strip above microwave oven is on (orange light on
in switch at right end) R.2 Make sure power strip above sink is plugged
into long power strip R.3 Make sure Rostock fan power supply is plugged
into power strip over sink R.4 Make sure Rostock is plugged into
horizontal power strip just to left of Taz R.5 Make sure 3D printer
computer (Dell computer left of Rostock) is plugged into power strip
left of Taz R.6 Make sure 3D printer computer monitor (above & to left
of Taz) is plugged in to power strip left of Taz R.7 Maker sure power
strip over sink is on R.8 If the horizontal power strip left of the Taz
is off (no orange light) turn it on (switch at wall end; orange light in
switch should come on) R.9 If the 3D printer computer is off (no green
light in power button in center of front above silver Dell logo) press
the power button (light should come on) R.10 Check that there is
sufficient correct filament on the reel R.11 If the filament diameter is
not written on the reel measure the filament diameter (calipers are in
the Measurement bin) in several places and write the average diameter on
the reel R.12 At the tabletop computer in MATE Terminal: cura (program
to convert surface representation(.stl) to 3D printer
instructions(.gcode)) R.13 If Basic is at the top left when the Cura
control display appears skip R.14-R.16 R.14 Click on Expert R.15 Click
on Switch to full settings... R.16 At Profile copy click No R.17 If
Quality is not immediately below Basic click on Basic R.18 Click on
Machine (at top) R.19 Click on Deltabot Style (yes, Deltabot not
Rostock) R.20 At Fill - Fill density (%): enter desired value (i.e., 20
for prototypes) R.21 At Speed and temperature - Printing temperature
(C): 215 (for PLA) R.22 At Speed and temperature - Bed temperature (C):
0 (bed heater not working) R.23 At Support - Support type: select None,
Touching buildplate, or Everywhere (depends on object to be printed; if
in doubt select Everywhere) R.24 At Support - Platform adhesion type:
select None, Brim, or Raft (depends on object; if in doubt select Brim)
R.25 At Filament - Diameter (mm): enter diameter written on reel R.26
Click on LOAD MODEL (top left of image) R.27 If you don't see the file
to print (i.e., testcube.stl) click on hacdc & scroll down if needed
R.28 Click on filetoprint.stl (i.e., testcube.stl) R.29 Click on Open
(lower right) R.30 Put blue masking tape on Rostock bed R.31 Put glue
(purple glue stick (PVA)) on tape (the following steps may take a long
time) R.32 When the object appears on right click on it; if you do not
want to make a mirror image skip R.33-R.34 R.33 Click on MIRROR (right
icon of 3 at bottom left of image) R.34 Click on the new icon above
MIRROR with the correct reflection plane (MIRROR Z, MIRROR Y, or MIRROR
Z) R.35 Click on SCALE (center icon of 3 at bottom left of image) R.36
Click on lock to right of Uniform Scale R.37 At X: enter 1.065 or, to
change the x dimension of the object, 1.065 multiplied by the number to
scale x direction by (i.e, .532 (1.065 x .5) to shrink to half width)
R.38 At Y: enter 1.065 or, to change the y dimension (depth) of the
object, 1.065 multiplied by the number to scale y direction by R.39 To
change the z dimension enter the number to scale the z direction by
(i.e., 2 to double the height) at Z: R.40 When SAVE GCODE lights up
(just to right of LOAD MODEL) click on it; if a removable drive message
does not appear skip R.41-R.43 R.41 Click on Custom file destination
R.42 Click on OK R.43 Click on hacdc R.44 When Save toolpath window
appears enter file name (i.e., testcubeR.gcode) after Name: (at top)
R.45 Click on Save (bottom right) R.46 When Cura states (at bottom)
Saved as /home/hacd... (with a large X to the right) click on tiny x at
far right top of Cura (to close Cura) R.47 scp filetoprint.gcode
hacdc@pronterhost.hacdc.org:/home/hacdc (i.e., testcubeR.gcode; send to
3D printer computer; note that it may be necessary to wait later (at
R.73) for this to finish) R.48 At Password: enter standard password R.49
If Rostock power is off turn it on (rocker switch above & to left of F4
(may be hidden under removable bed); display should come on) R.50 At 3D
printer computer (keyboard usually on Taz):Ctrl Alt F4 (always hold Ctrl
& Alt down when pressing the other key (F4 (at top) not F & 4)) R.51 If
the 3D printer computer monitor (above Taz on left) does not show a
final line starting with a printer in use skip R.52-R.56 R.52 Ctrl Alt
F2 R.53 If the final line does not start with a printer in use skip
R.54-R.56 R.54 Ctrl Alt F6 R.55 If the final line does not start with a
printer in use skip R.56 R.56 Ctrl Alt F5 R.57 If the monitor is blank
or only shows a flashing dash wait a minute R.58 Press backspace & hold
it down if anything is disappearing from the monitor R.59 If the monitor
shows a final line that is just a flashing dash press Enter R.60 If the
monitor shows a final line that starts offline, MINI, ROSTOCK, or TAZ
skip R.61-R.71; \[nnnnn@pronterhost ~\]\$ where nnnnn is anything skip
R.61-R.70; pronterhost login: skip R.61-R.68 R.61 If either Mini or Taz
printer is in use \*\*\*STOP\*\*\* & either wait for the printers to
finish or get expert help R.62 Ctrl Alt F1 R.63 Click on 3 dots & \>
symbol at lower left corner of monitor R.64 Move cursor to Leave at
lower right corner of new window R.65 Click on Reboot in center of
window R.66 Click on OK R.67 Wait for monitor to come back on (it takes
a while) R.68 Ctrl Alt F4 R.69 pronterhost login: hacdc R.70 At
Password: enter standard password R.71 pronsole R.72 connect
/dev/ROSTOCK R.73 load /home/hacdc/filetoprint.gcode (i.e.,
/home/hacdc/testcubeR.gcode; it may be necessary to wait for the file to
finish transferring from the other computer (step R.47)) R.74 If any of
the horizontal rods joining the printhead platform to the 3 support arms
or joining the arms to the movable mounts on the side bars of the frame
have shifted off to the side push them back in so they are centered R.75
Wait until the monitor states the file is loaded (may take a while) R.76
If the final line begins with ROSTOCK in green skip R.77-R.87 R.77
disconnect R.78 connect /dev/ROSTOCK R.79 Wait a minute R.80 Enter R.81
If the final line has ROSTOCK in green skip R.82-R.87 R.82 Turn off
Rostock power (rocker switch on top of & to left of display) R.83 Wait a
minute R.84 Turn on Rostock power R.85 Wait until the regular Rostock
display appears R.86 Repeat steps R.78-R.81 R.87 STOP & get expert help
R.88 print R.89 Wait for Rostock to start and check to see that it is
printing OK R.90 Wait - printing large objects can take an extremely
long time ins3DRostockpronsole.txt - May 24, 2019 version
ins3DRostockstart.txt - June 13, 2019 version If you can't fix a problem
& expert help is not available: !.1 If the Rostock power has already
been turned off STOP here !.2 pause !.3 Press knob on Rostock (to right
of display on base) !.4 Select Adjust Temps by turning knob !.5 Press
knob !.6 Select NOZ Temp: by turning knob !.7 Press knob !.8 Set
temperature to 0 by turning knob !.9 Press knob If printing does not
begin: P.1 If the nozzle temperature stays (it may overshoot for a short
time) above the correct value by more than a few degrees skip P.2-P.19;
if the temperature is below the correct value but rising STOP & wait
(the Rostock is still preparing to print) P.2 Select NOZ Temp: by
following steps !.3-!.7 P.3 Set temperature to 0 by turning knob P.4
Press knob P.5 Press knob again P.6 Set temperature to correct value by
turning knob P.7 Press knob; if the printhead temperature rises skip
P.8-P.17 P.8 Turn the Rostock power off (rocker switch to left & on top
of display) P.9 Wait a minute P.10 Turn Rostock power on P.11 Wait until
the regular display appears on the Rostock P.12 If not using pronsole
start over; if using pronsole: connect /dev/ROSTOCK P.13 If the final
line of the screen starts with ROSTOCK in green skip P.14-P.17 P.14 Wait
briefly & press Enter P.15 If the final line of the screen shows ROSTOCK
in green skip P.16-P.17 P.16 Repeat P.14-P.15 P.17 If ROSTOCK is still
red STOP & get expert help P.18 print; if the printhead heats up STOP
here P.19 STOP & get expert help P.20 Turn the Rostock power off P.21
Get expert help If the display shows NOZ: def or BED: def or you get the
error message: Error:Printer set into dry run mode until restart! D.1
Turn Rostock power off (rocker switch to left & on top of display; may
be covered by square bed) D.2 Make sure bed temperature was set to 0
when stl file was converted to gcode (i.e., when using Cura) D.3 Wait a
minute D.4 Turn Rostock power back on D.5 Wait until regular Rostock
display appears D.6 Start over If you get the error message: Error:One
heater seems decoupled from thermistor H.1 Press knob on Rostock H.2
Select Adjust Temps by turning knob H.3 Press knob H.4 Select BED Temp:
by turning knob H.5 Press knob H.6 Set temperature to 0 C by turning
knob (clockwise for lower) H.7 Press knob H.8 Select NOZ Temp: by
turning knob H.9 Press knob H.10 Set nozzle temperature to correct value
by turning knob H.11 Press knob ins3DRostockend.txt - June 13, 2019
version To remove printed objects from the bed: Z.1 Spread water around
the base of the object so a shallow layer touches it all around Z.2 Wait
until the object has cooled fully and water has soaked in; add more
water as needed to maintain a shallow layer all around Z.3 If the object
is sturdy you can try to remove it by slowly but firmly trying to tilt
it in different directions; if it comes off skip Z.4-Z.8 Z.4 Remove tape
around base of object Z.5 Slice under the object from various directions
with a razor blade (careful!) Z.6 Pry up the object from different
directions with a putty knife or similar item; if the object comes off
skip Z.7-Z.8 Z.7 Wait some more; add more water as needed to maintain a
shallow layer all around Z.8 Repeat steps Z.5-Z.8 Z.9 Dry off the bed
ins3DRostockprob.txt - June 13, 2019 version To pause printing if using
pronsole: P.1 pause (it may take a while to stop) P.2 If you might want
to resume the print avoid moving the printhead unless necessary and only
use the move commands to move it (i.e., move z 10) being careful not to
hit the partial print with the printhead unit & noting how much it is
moved in each direction P.3 To resume printing: If the printhead has not
been moved skip P.4 P.4 Use move commands to move the printhead back to
where it paused (i.e., move z -10) being careful not to hit the partial
print with the printhead unit P.5 resume If you can't fix a problem &
expert help is not available: !.1 If the Rostock power has already been
turned off STOP here !.2 pause !.3 Press knob on Rostock (to right of
display on base) !.4 Select Adjust Temps by turning knob !.5 Press knob
!.6 Select NOZ Temp: by turning knob !.7 Press knob !.8 Set temperature
to 0 by turning knob !.9 Press knob !.10 Get expert help when it becomes
available; it may be possible to resume printing If the nozzle
temperature stays (it may overshoot for a short time) above the correct
value by more than a few degrees: T.1 Turn Rostock power off (rocker
switch to left & on top of display) T.2 Get expert help If the display
shows NOZ: def or BED: def: D.1 Turn Rostock power off (rocker switch
left and on top of display; may be partially covered by square bed) D.2
Turn Rostock power back on (you may need to use a pencil etc. to flip
the switch) D.3 Make sure the bed temperature was set to 0 when the stl
file was converted to gcode (i.e., when using Cura) D.4 Start over If
the display shows gibberish: G.1 If the printer is printing normally
wait until the print finishes G.2 Turn Rostock power off (rocker switch
left and on top of display; may be partially covered by square bed) G.3
Turn Rostock power back on (you may need to use a pencil etc. to flip
the switch) G.4 Start over If the feed gear won't turn: F.1 If the main
display is shown skip F.2-F.4 F.2 Select Previous Screen by turning knob
F.3 Press knob F.4 Repeat steps F.1-F.4 F.5 Press knob (should then show
Printer Settings selected) F.6 Press knob again F.7 Select Disable
Steppers by turning knob F.8 Press knob ins3DRostockmaint.txt - June 13,
2019 version To change Rostock filament: F.1 Make sure new reel has
correct filament F.2 Press knob to right of display on Rostock base F.3
Select Adjust Temp: by turning knob F.4 Press knob F.5 Select NOZ Temp:
by turning knob F.6 Press knob (\> at left of display should change to
\*) F.7 Set temperature to 180 C by turning knob F.8 Press knob F.9 Trim
end of new filament if it is blunt or distorted; try to make it slightly
pointed F.10 Loosen 2 adjacent screws next to large purple gear on feed
mechanism attached to top of Rostock noting how much they were turned
F.11 Measure the diameter of the new filament (calipers are in the
Measurement bin) in several places and write the average diameter on the
reel; note that if the diameter is different gcode should be recompiled
(i.e., with Cura) using the new diameter F.12 Wait until nozzle
temperature reaches about 180 C F.13 Pull filament up until it comes out
of feed mechanism F.14 Select NOZ Temp: by repeating steps F.2-F.6 F.15
Set temperature to 215 C by turning knob F.16 Press knob F.17 Pull old
filament up from above Rostock (i.e., by turning filament reel) out of
hole in top of Rostock above feed mechanism F.18 Unscrew nut on outside
of reel from threaded rod holding reel F.19 Remove washer from threaded
rod F.20 Remove pink reel holder from threaded rod F.21 Remove reel from
threaded rod F.22 Put new reel on threaded rod so filament hangs down
from front of reel as seen from front of Rostock F.23 Put pink reel
holder on threaded rod so new reel is held snugly and is centered on
holders F.24 Put washer back on threaded rod F.25 Screw nut back on
threaded rod until reel holder is held firmly (but reel can still turn
freely) F.26 Insert filament thru hole in top of Rostock above feed
mechanism making sure it is not twisted or tangled F.27 Push end of
filament into hole above purple gear on feed mechanism while turning
purple gear clockwise; if filament enters feed tube (visible in short
exposed section of feed tube just below purple gear) skip F.28-F.30 F.28
Unscrew feed tube below purple gear F.29 Feed filament from below purple
gear into feed tube F.30 Screw filament feed tube back onto feed
mechanism below purple gear F.31 Wait until NOZ Temp reaches around 215
C F.32 Turn purple gear clockwise until filament starts coming out of
extruder head (it will take a while for it to reach the head) F.33
Tighten 2 screws next to purple gear the same amount they were loosened
F.34 If you are going to print now stop here F.35 Select NOZ Temp: by
repeating steps F.2-F.6 F.36 Set temperature to 0 by turning knob F.37
Press knob To set printhead height: Z.1 Press knob to right of display
on base Z.2 Select Advanced Settings by turning knob Z.3 Press knob Z.4
Select Calibration Menu by turning knob Z.5 Press knob Z.6 Select Z
Position by turning knob Z.7 Press knob Z.8 Set printhead to correct
height (barely above bed; it should slightly drag on a sheet of paper)
by turning knob Z.9 Press knob Z.10 Select Set Z Origin by turning knob
Z.11 Press knob Z.12 Select Previous Screen by turning knob Z.13 Press
knob Z.14 Repeat Z.12-Z.13 until you reach the desired display To level
the bed: L.1 Unclip & remove glass bed plate L.2 Clean off any debris on
the Rostock base or the bottom of the plate L.3 Replace & reclip plate
L.4 Make sure the printhead is at the proper height in the center of the
bed (see To set printhead height immediately above) L.5 If bed still
needs leveling turn the vertical screw sticking out of the inside top of
the movable joint where an arm meets a main vertical bar of the frame
less than a full turn clockwise to raise the printhead on that side,
counterclockwise to lower it L.6 Repeat until that side is level L.7
Repeat for other two sides as needed NOTE: Since the Rostock is
currently printing smaller than it should the feed rate has been set
lower than normal to compensate To calibrate the filament feed rate: R.1
Ctrl Alt F4 (always hold the Ctrl & Alt keys down while pressing the
other key (F4 (top row) not F & 4)) R.2 If the screen does not show a
final line starting with a printer that is in use skip R.3-R.7 R.3 Alt
F2 R.4 If the final line does not start with a printer in use skip
R.5-R.7 R.5 Alt F6 R.6 If the final line does not start with a printer
in use skip R.7 R.7 Alt F1 R.8 If the final line starts with offline,
MINI, ROSTOCK, or TAZ skip R.9-R.11; if it is nnnn@pronterhost:~\$ where
nnnn is anything skip R.9-R.10; if it is not pronterhost login: see
ins3Dcompprob.txt R.9 pronterhost login: hacdc R.10 At Password: enter
standard password R.11 pronsole R.12 connect /dev/ROSTOCK R.13 If the
final line shows ROSTOCK in green skip R.14-R.19 R.14 Wait a minute R.15
Enter R.16 If screen shows ROSTOCK in green skip R.17-R.19 R.17
disconnect R.18 Repeat R.12-R.16 R.19 See ins3Dcompprob.txt R.20 Select
NOZ Temp: by following steps F.2-F.6 R.21 Set temperature to 215 C by
turning knob R.22 Press knob R.23 If the nozzle is close to the bed or a
print: move z 20 R.24 Wait until NOZ Temp: is about 215 C R.25 Mark the
filament at a known distance from where it enters the feed mechanism
(i.e., 120 mm) R.26 extrude \# where \# is somewhat less than the
distance to the mark (i.e., 100 R.27 Wait until the Rostock finishes
extruding R.28 If the mark has entered the feed mechanism repeat
R.25-R.28 with a longer distance to the mark R.29 Measure the distance
from the mark to where the filament enters the feed mechanism (i.e.,
21.6 mm) R.30 Repeat steps R.25-R.29 with the same distance to the mark
& extrude length R.31 If the result is not the same STOP & get expert
help (if help is not available set printhead temperature to 0 or turn
Rostock power off) R.32 Subtract the length remaining (i.e., 21.6 mm)
from the original length to the mark (i.e., 120) to determine how much
filament was actually extruded (i.e., 98.4 mm) R.33 Press knob on
Rostock (to right of display on base) R.34 Select Advanced Settings by
turning knob R.35 Press knob R.36 Select Extruder by turning knob R.37
Press knob R.38 Select Steps/MM: by turning knob R.39 Multiply number
shown (i.e., 798.4) by length that should have been extruded (i.e.,798.4
x 100 = 79840) R.40 Divide by amount that was actually extruded (i.e.,
98.4) to get the correct feed rate (i.e., 79840 / 98.4 = 811.4) R.41
Press knob (\> at left of display should change to \*) R.42 Set
Steps/MM: to correct value by turning knob R.43 Press knob R.44 Repeat
steps R.25-R.29 with a longer length (i.e., mark at 205 mm & extrude
200) R.45 Subtract the length remaining from the original length to
determine the actual length extruded R.46 If display does not still show
Steps/MM: repeat steps R.33-R.38 R.47 If the actual length is correct
skip R.48; if it is way off STOP & get expert help (if help is not
available set printhead temperature to 0 or turn Rostock power off) R.48
Repeat steps R.39-R.43 R.49 Select Previous Screen by turning knob R.50
Press knob R.51 Select Store to EEPROM by turning knob R.52 Press knob
R.53 If you are going to print now stop here R.54 Select Previous Screen
by turning knob R.55 Press knob R.56 Select Adjust Temps by turning knob
R.57 Press knob R.58 Select NOZ Temp: by turning knob R.59 Press knob
R.60 Set temperature to 0 by turning knob R.61 Press knob To tighten a
belt: B.1 Turn off printer B.2 For easier access, move the arm-rod joint
down so the arm tilts up towards the center B.3 Unscrew the 2 hex head
bolts with washer & white spacer at the inside center of the arm-rod
joints B.4 Pull out the narrow vertical piece in the inside center of
the arm-rod joint B.5 While holding the joint, pull up on the LOWER belt
end sticking out from where the removed piece was B.6 While maintaining
tension on the belt, swing the belt end down B.7 While continuing to
maintain tension, replace the narrow vertical piece so the teeth press
against the belt at top & bottom B.8 Replace one of the hex bolts with
the washer & white spacer (the spacer must fit in the hole in the
vertical piece) B.9 Thighten the bolt until it holds the vertical piece
securely B.10 Replace the other bolt, washer, & spacer B.11 Firmly
tighten both bolts B.12 Push the joint back up so the arm tilts down
towards the center To unclog the Rostock printhead: C.1 Unscrew the
coupling (gold color with 6 sides & blue piece at top where filament
enters; CAUTION - may be hot) at the top of the printhead C.2 Press knob
C.3 Select Adjust Temps by turning knob C.4 Press knob C.5 Select NOZ
Temp: by turning knob C.6 Press knob C.7 Set to 215 C by turning knob
C.8 Press knob C.9 Select Previous Screen by turning knob C.10 Press
knob C.11 Select Previous Screen by turning knob C.12 Press knob C.13
Wait until NOZ: reaches around 215 C.14 If there is filament going into
the printhead pull it out (up); if there is a short piece of tubing on
the end of the filament skip steps C.15-C.19 C.15 If the top of the
vertical piece of tubing in the top center of the printhead where the
filament enters is not clogged skip C.16-17 C.16 Using a 1/16" bit in a
hand drill, drill a short distance into the clog being careful to keep
the drill bit centered C.17 Lift out the drill bit; if the piece of
tubing comes out with it skip C.18-C.19 C.18 Screw a fairly long screw
slightly bigger than the filament into the end of the tubing where the
filament enters until the screw catches in the tubing C.19 Pull out the
piece of tubing C.20 If there is a piece of filament sticking out of the
tubing try to pull it out (may take considerable effort) C.21 If there
is still a clog in the tubing push the feed tube snake (should be behind
& to right of Rostock on top of electrical box on wall) or other rigid
straight item into an open end of the tube to try to force the clog out
(may also take considerable effort); if it comes out skip C.22-23 C.22
Using a 1/16" bit in a hand drill, carefully drill out the clog (from
both ends if necessary) C.23 Using a 5/64" bit in a hand drill or your
fingers, drill out the remainder of the clog C.24 Push the tubing back
into the top center of the printhead with the burnt end up (use a pencil
eraser etc. to push it all the way in) C.25 If the filament goes all the
way thru the feed tube & moves freely when the purple feed gear on the
extruder (hanging from the top of the Rostock) is turned skip C.26-C.33;
if the coupling at the end of the feed tube is not clogged skip C.26
C.26 Using a 5/64" bit in a hand drill, carefully drill out the clog
(Caution: the coupling may still be hot) C.27 Unscrew the coupling at
the other end of the feed tube where it connects to the extruder C.28
Try to pull the filament out of the tube; if it won't come out STOP and
get expert help; the tube may need to be replaced C.29 Check if the tube
is clear (i.e., by pushing the feed tube snake thru it); if it isn't &
the clog can't be pushed out STOP and get expert help; the tube may need
to be replaced C.30 If the end of the filament is swollen, damaged, or
blunt trim off any swollen or damaged part and try to make the end
slightly pointed C.31 Insert the end of the filament into the feed tube
C.32 Screw the connector back into the extruder C.33 Feed filament by
turning the purple gear on the extruder clockwise (as viewed from the
front) until it emerges from the other end of the feed tube (requires a
lot of turning; if there is a problem the instructions for changing the
filament may be helpful) C.34 If the end of the filament is swollen,
damaged, or blunt trim off any swollen or damaged part and try to make
the end slightly pointed C.35 Retract excess filament by turning the
purple extruder gear counterclockwise until only a tiny amount sticks
out C.36 Screw the coupling (Caution - it may still be hot) back into
the top of the printhead C.37 Repeat steps C.2-C.6 if needed to select
NOZ temp: C.38 Set temperature to 225 by turning knob C.39 Repeat steps
C.8-C.12 C.40 Wait until NOZ temp: reaches around 225 C.41 Slowly turn
purple gear clockwise (or use the extrude command) until filament starts
to emerge (if the gear becomes hard to turn but no filament comes out it
may have reclogged; start over (it has taken a couple tries before final
success)) C.42 Repeat steps C.2-C.6 C.43 Set NOZ temp: to 215 by turning
knob C.44 Press knob C.45 Put feed tube snake away if you used it C.46
If you are going to print now stop here C.47 Set NOZ temp: to 0 by
turning knob C.48 press knob ins3DRostockmaint - June 13, 2019 version
insCuraaddRostock.txt - How to add the Rostock to Cura (Warning:
instructions are for one specific version of Cura; others may differ but
the basic idea should be the same) - Jan. 4, 2018 version To add the
Rostock to Cura (numbers are for standard filament): R.1 Click on
Machine (top left) R.2 Click on Add new machine... R.3 At Select your
machine (pictures) click on Other Printers R.4 Click on Next R.5 At
Select your machine (list) click on Other R.6 Click on Next R.7 At Other
machine information click on DeltaBot R.8 Click on Next R.9 At Cura
Ready! click on Finish R.10 Click on Machine R.11 Click on Machine
settings... R.12 At Machine settings: Maximum width (mm): 320 R.13
Maximum depth (mm): 320 R.14 Maximum height (mm): 320 R.15 Click on OK
R.16 At Speed and temperature: Printing temperature (C): 215 R.17 Bed
temperature (C): 0 R.18 At Filament: Diameter (mm): 1.75 To fix Cura so
it will compile for the Rostock (Warning: this is for a specific version
of Cura): sudo emacs -nw /usr/share/cura/Cura/util/sliceEngine.py scroll
down to line 359: pos += (objMin + objMax) / 2.0 \* 1000 edit it to: pos
= numpy.add(pos, (objMin + objMax) / 2.0 \* 1000) and save (Ctrl x Ctrl
s)

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Specifications - Oct. 4, 2019 y-axis: The drive belt has a tooth every 3
mm. There are 16 teeth on the motor drive gear so 1 rotation=48 mm. 200
steps of the stepper motor is 1 rotation so: 1 step = .24 mm 1 mm =
4.1666... steps

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ins3DUltiSD.txt - June 13, 2022 version To print from an SD memory card:
U.1 Sometimes glue (glue stick (PVA)) should be put on the bed; it is
currently unclear when glue should be used U.2 Make sure there is
sufficient correct filament on the spool U.3 Turn on UltiMaker (power
switch is in back on left) U.4 Insert SD card (SD card must be left in
until print is finished) U.5 Select PRINT by turning dial U.6 Press dial
U.7 Select desired file by turning dial U.8 Press dial U.9 Wait for
printer to start and make sure it is printing properly
ins3DUltimaint.txt - Oct. 1, 2019 Leveling: L.1 Turn on power switch in
back if it is off L.2 Select MAINTENANCE by turning dial L.3 Press dial
L.4 Select BUILD-PLATE by turning dial L.5 Press dial L.6 Select
CONTINUE by turning dial L.7 Press dial L.8 Turn knob under front right
corner of bed below printhead until there is about a 1 mm gap between
the tip of the printhead and the bed L.9 Press dial L.10 Turn knob under
back center of bed below printhead until there is about a 1 mm gap
between printhead tip & bed L.11 Press dial L.12 Turn knob under front
left of bed below printhead until there is about a 1 mm gap between
printhead tip & bed L.13 Press dial L.14 Slide a sheet of paper between
printhead and bed (front right) then adjust knob until paper binds very
slightly L.15 Press dial L.16 Slide the paper between printhead & bed
(center back) and adjust knob until paper binds very slightly L.17 Press
dial L.18 Slide the paper between printhead & bed (front left) and
adjust knob until paper binds very slightly L.19 Press dial L.20 Slide
the paper between printhead & bed (front right) again and adjust knob if
needed so paper binds very slightly. L.21 Press dial (Instructions for
changing the filament have been deleted since they are outdated because
the extruder has been replaced) Calibrating the filament feed rate R.1
Connect the USB port on a tabletop computer to the port on the Ultimaker
with the appropriate cable R.2 Login: hacdc R.3 At Password: enter
standard password R.4 If the MATE Terminal icon is on the screen double
click on it and skip R.5-R.7 R.5 Click on Applications (top left) R.6
Select System Tools R.7 Click on MATE Terminal R.8 pronterface R.9 Click
on downward arrowhead under & just to right of help (at top) R.10 Click
on 250000 (connection speed) R.11 Click on Connect R.12 Heat: 185 R.13
If the nozzle is close to the bed or a print: move z 20 R.14 Wait for
the nozzle to heat to around 185 C R.15 Mark the filament at a known
distance from where it enters the feed mechanism (i.e., 120 mm) R.16
Extrude - At Length: enter a distance somewhat smaller than the mark
(i.e., 100 mm) R.17 Click on Extrude R.18 Wait until the Ultimaker
finishes extruding R.19 If the mark has entered the feed mechanism
repeat steps R.15-R.19 with a longer distance to the mark R.20 Measure
the distance from the mark to where the filament enters the feed
mechanism (i.e., 22.4 mm) R.21 Repeat R.15-R.20 using the same distance
to the mark & Length:; if the result is the same skip R.22-R.24 R.22
Follow the instructions at If the filament is not feeding properly: in
ins3DUltiprob.txt R.23 Repeat R.15-R.20 R.24 Repeat R.15-R.20 again with
the same distance to the mark & Length:; if the result is not the same
STOP and get expert help R.25 Subtract the distance to the mark from the
oringinal distance to determine how much filament was actually extruded
(i.e., 120-22,4 = 97.6 mm) R.26 At bottom right left of Send: M503 R.27
Click Send R.29 Find the line that starts echo: M92 & note the number
after E at the end of this line (i.e., 2158.32) R.29 Multiply this
number by the value of Length: (i.e., 2158.32 x 100 = 215832) R.30
Divide the result by the actual length of filament used (i.e., 215832 /
97.6 = 2211.39); this is the new value for E R.31 M92 E# where \# is the
new value (i.e., M92 E2211.39) R.32 Click Send R.33 M503 R.34 Click Send
R.35 Verify that E has the new value (i.e., E2211.39) R.36 Repeat
R.15-R.20 with a longer length (i.e., mark at 205 & extrude 200) R.37
Subtract the distance to the mark from the original distance to the mark
to determine how much filament was extruded R.38 If the actual length is
correct skip R.39; if it is way off STOP & get expert help (if help is
not available set Heat: to off or turn off Ultimaker) R.39 Repeat
R.26-R.35 R.40 M500 R.41 Click Send; the screen should state that the
new value was stored in EEPROM R.42 Heat: Click on Off
ins3DUltimaint.txt - May 8, 2018

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ins3Dcomp.txt - July 25, 2019 version To shut down the computer &
optionally restart it from the main screen (WARNING: will stop printing
in progress): L.1 Ctrl Alt F1 (Always hold the Ctrl & Alt keys down when
pressing the other key (F1 in top row not F & 1)) L.2 Click on the icon
at the bottom left of the monitor that looks like part of a clock face
L.3 Move the cursor over Leave at the bottom right of the window that
appears L.4 To shut down & restart the computer click on Restart L.5 To
shut down the computer click on Shut Down L.6 Optional: click on OK to
speed things up To shut down the computer & optionally restart it from a
terminal (WARNING: Will stop printing in progress): S.1 If there is no
terminal window on the monitor: Ctrl Alt F2 (Always hold the Ctrl & Alt
keys down when pressing the other key (F2 in top row not F & 2)) S.2 If
the last line on the terminal window is not pronterhost login: skip
S.3-S.4 S.3 pronterhost login: hacdc S.4 At password: enter standard
password S.5 If the last line is offline\> or starts with the name of a
printer: exit S.6 To shut down & restart the computer: sudo shutdown -r
now S.7 To shut down the computer: sudo shutdown -h now S.8 At \[sudo\]
password for hacdc: enter standard password ins3Dcompprob.txt - July 22,
2019 version If all else (i.e., see If a terminal does not respond at
all below) fails and 3D printer computer does not respond at all: !.1:
If horizontal power strip left of Taz is off (no orange light in switch
at wall end of sockets) turn it on (light should come on) !.2 Make sure
3D printer computer is plugged in to power strip !.3 Make sure 3D
printer computer monitor is plugged in to power strip !.4 If monitor is
off (no orange light in power (rightmost) button at bottom) push button
(light should come on) !.5 If a printer is printing normally wait until
it finishes or get expert help !.6 If there is no green light on in
power button in center of front of 3D printer computer skip steps
!.7-!.9 !.7 Push power button !.8 Wait until green light in button goes
off & stays off !.9 Turn off all printers !.10 Turn on any printers that
are to be used !.11 Push power button on 3D printer computer !.12 If
green light doesn't come on STOP & get expert help !.13 If screen does
not eventually (it takes quite a while for it to start up) come on STOP
& get expert help If a terminal does not respond at all (i.e., terminal
5): T.1 Ctrl Alt F2 (always hold the Ctrl & Alt keys down when pressing
the other key (F2 in top row not F & 2)) T.2 If this terminal is not
responding skip T.3 T.3 If the bottom line does not start with a printer
in use skip T.4-T.16 T.4 Ctrl Alt F6 T.5 If this terminal is not
responding skip T.6 T.6 If the bottom line does not start with a printer
in use skip T.7-T.16 T.7 Ctrl Alt F3 T.8 If this terminal is not
responding skip T.9 T.9 If the bottom line does not start with a printer
in use skip T.10-T.16 T.10 Ctrl Alt F4 T.11 If this terminal is not
responding skip T.12 T.12 If the bottom line does not start with a
printer in use skip T.13-T.16 T.13 Ctrl Alt F5 T.14 If this terminal is
not responding skip T.15 T.15 If the bottom line does not start with a
printer in use skip T.16 T.16 In the unlikely event you get here all the
terminals are either in use or broken; you can either get expert help,
stop one of the printers, or wait for one of them to finish and use the
terminal that was controlling that printer T.17 If the bottom line is
not pronterhost login: skip T.18-T.19 T.18 pronterhost login: hacdc T.19
At Password: enter standard password T.20 If the bottom line starts
offline\> or the name of a printer that is not in use: exit T.21 ps
auxwww \| grep tty# where \# is the number of the nonworking terminal
(i.e., ps auxwww \| grep tty5) T.22 The display should show a list with
a name (user; i.e., root or demo), an integer (process ID), 2 decimal
numbers (% used of CPU & memory), 2 integers, tty#, some characters
(status), a time (start), a time (CPU used), and a name (command),
including one entry ending with /bin/login -- and another ending with
-bash; DISREGARD any entry where tty# is not the number of the
nonworking terminal; if there are no other entries skip T.23-T.28 T.23
sudo kill -9 \# where \# is the process ID (1st integer, 2nd column) of
an entry with the correct tty# other than the ones ending /bin/login --
or -bash \*\*\*WARNING\*\*\* - make sure the number is correct! T.24 At
\[sudo\] password for hacdc: enter standard password T.25 Ctrl Alt F#
where \# is the number for the terminal that was not responding T.26 If
the terminal now responds STOP HERE - DONE T.27 Ctrl Alt F\$ where \$ is
the number for the terminal you were using T.28 Repeat steps T.21-T.27
until only the 2 entries with login & bash remain T.29 sudo kill -9 \#
where \# is the process ID (right after demo) in the line ending -bash
\*\*\*WARNING\*\*\* - make sure the number is correct! T.30 At \[sudo\]
password for hacdc: enter standard password T.31 Ctrl Alt F# where \# is
the number for the terminal that was not responding T.32 If the terminal
now responds STOP HERE - DONE T.33 Ctrl Alt F\$ where \$ is the number
for the terminal you were using T.34 sudo kill -9 \# where \# is the
process ID (right after root) in the line ending with /bin/login --
\*\*\*WARNING\*\*\* - make sure the number is correct! T.35 At \[sudo\]
password for hacdc: enter standard password If this doesn't fix the
problem get expert help If the computer states \[ERROR\] Can't read from
printer (disconnected?) (SerialException): device reports readiness to
read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on
port?) more than 1 terminal may be connected to the printer. R.1 If you
are using terminal 2 skip R.2-R.3 R.2 Ctrl Alt F2 (always hold the Ctrl
& Alt keys down when pressing the other key (F2 in top row not F & 2))
R.3 If the bottom of the display shows the printer you are using:
disconnect R.4 Repeat R.1-R.3 for terminal 3 & Ctrl Alt F3, terminal 4 &
Ctrl Alt F4, terminal 5 & Ctrl Alt F5, & terminal 6 & Ctrl Alt F6

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**Session I: I have a printer, now what?**
Brief overview of process:
`   What is 3d printing`
`   Slicers and gcode`
`   .stl files and cads`
`   .stl files and downloads (design sources like Thingiverse)`
`   Scanners`
Working with designs:
`   What kind of files can I edit and how do I find them?`
`   Creative Commons license`
`   Customizations`
`   Creating your own basic designs`
Cad tools:
`   Gui-based - TinkerCad`
`   Parametric -  OpenScad, Implicit`
`   Hybrids`
How do I convert the file so I can print it on a different printer? What
materials can I print in? Create simple designs Small project, like a
keychain charm or something else tiny but customizable
**Before class:** Create an account on TinkerCAD Create an account on
Thingiverse
**Bring your own laptop!**

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### Executive Summary
From the 3d printing server (reachable from the network via
pronterhost.local and pronterhost.hacdc.org) 3d printers can be
referenced by /dev/TAZ, /dev/MINI, and /dev/ROSTOCK. (added by Tom
9/9/2019)
### The problem
When powering cycling computers and various USB devices attached to said
computer, one does not necessarily get the same `/dev/ttyACM...`
associated with the same physical device every time. This makes it a
royal pain in the ass to use `pronsole` or other applications that need
to be explicitly told what to connect to, because each time you want to
connect to a specific printer you have to do somersaults to determine
the ACM number du jour for the printer (or other device) you want.
### The solution
So, on the artist currently known as `pronterhost.local`, as of
2019.01.21... Julia had previously created
`/etc/udev/rules.d/80-printer-names.rules`, the contents of which were:
# This file was automatically generated by the /lib/udev/write_net_rules
# program, run by the persistent-net-generator.rules rules file.
#
# You can modify it, as long as you keep each rule on a single
# line, and change only the value of the NAME= key.
SUBSYSTEM=="tty", KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="7403431393835160C070", SYMLINK+="MINI"
# old
#SUBSYSTEM=="tty", KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="6403636363835110D101", SYMLINK+="TAZ"
SUBSYSTEM=="tty", KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="640363534303516070A1", SYMLINK+="TAZ"
SUBSYSTEM=="tty", KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="64032373833351906091", SYMLINK+="ROSTOCK"
Following directions at [How to write udev Rules for USB
Devices](https://weininger.net/how-to-write-udev-rules-for-usb-devices.html),
`$ `<span style="font-weight:bold; background:#ffffd0;">`lsusb`</span>
`Bus 005 Device 006: ID 0bda:0158 Realtek Semiconductor Corp. USB 2.0 multicard reader`
`Bus 005 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub`
`Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub`
`Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub`
`Bus 002 Device 003: ID 413c:2003 Dell Computer Corp. Keyboard`
`Bus 002 Device 002: ID 27b1:0001`
`Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub`
`Bus 001 Device 003: ID 27b1:0001`
`Bus 001 Device 002: ID 27b1:0001`
`Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub`
I'm going to take a guess at the new TAZ being one of the three lines
above which contain no human-readable vendor information (while the
other two lines will correspond to the known 3D printers in the space --
the ROSTOCK and MINI):
- Bus 002 Device 002: ID 27b1:0001
- Bus 001 Device 003: ID 27b1:0001
- Bus 001 Device 002: ID 27b1:0001
Testing two of them (Bus 001 Devices 003 and 002) yielded:
`$ `<span style="font-weight:bold; background:#ffffd0;">`udevadm info -a -p $(udevadm info -q path -n /dev/bus/usb/001/003) | \`
`   egrep "(7403431393835160C070|6403636363835110D101|640363534303516070A1|64032373833351906091)"`</span>
`   ATTR{ID_SERIAL}=="UltiMachine__ultimachine.com__RAMBo_64032373833351906091"`
`   ATTR{ID_SERIAL_SHORT}=="64032373833351906091"`
`$ `<span style="font-weight:bold; background:#ffffd0;">`udevadm info -a -p $(udevadm info -q path -n /dev/bus/usb/001/002) | \`
`   egrep "(7403431393835160C070|6403636363835110D101|640363534303516070A1|64032373833351906091)"`</span>
`   ATTR{ID_SERIAL}=="UltiMachine__ultimachine.com__RAMBo_7403431393835160C070"`
`   ATTR{ID_SERIAL_SHORT}=="7403431393835160C070"`
Note that the first `udevadm ...` yields a serial number that matches
Julia's serial number for the ROSTOCK and the second `udevadm ...`
matches that of the MINI.
Testing Bus 002 Device 002 did not match any of the existing numbers but
did provide a serial number with RAMBo in the name. Looking a the entire
output of the command,
`$ `<span style="font-weight:bold; background:#ffffd0;">`udevadm info -a -p $(udevadm info -q path -n /dev/bus/usb/002/002)`</span>
`Udevadm info starts with the device specified by the devpath and then`
`walks up the chain of parent devices. It prints for every device`
`found, all possible attributes in the udev rules key format.`
`A rule to match, can be composed by the attributes of the device`
`and the attributes from one single parent device.`
`  looking at device '//devices/pci0000:00/0000:00:1d.1/usb2/2-1':`
`    KERNEL=="2-1"`
`    SUBSYSTEM=="usb"`
`    DRIVER=="usb"`
`    ATTR{SUBSYSTEM}=="usb"`
`    ATTR{DRIVER}=="usb"`
`    ATTR{DEVTYPE}=="usb_device"`
`    ATTR{PRODUCT}=="27b1/1/1"`
`    ATTR{TYPE}=="2/0/0"`
`    ATTR{BUSNUM}=="002"`
`    ATTR{DEVNUM}=="002"`
`    ATTR{MAJOR}=="189"`
`    ATTR{MINOR}=="129"`
`    ATTR{USEC_INITIALIZED}=="3639901"`
`    ATTR{ID_VENDOR}=="UltiMachine__ultimachine.com_"`
`    ATTR{ID_VENDOR_ENC}=="UltiMachine\x20\x28ultimachine.com\x29"`
`    ATTR{ID_VENDOR_ID}=="27b1"`
`    ATTR{ID_MODEL}=="RAMBo"`
`    ATTR{ID_MODEL_ENC}=="RAMBo"`
`    ATTR{ID_MODEL_ID}=="0001"`
`    ATTR{ID_REVISION}=="0001"`
`    ATTR{ID_SERIAL}=="UltiMachine__ultimachine.com__RAMBo_6403335373035101E171"`
`    ATTR{ID_SERIAL_SHORT}=="6403335373035101E171"`
`    ATTR{ID_BUS}=="usb"`
`    ATTR{ID_USB_INTERFACES}==":020201:0a0000:"`
And so, the second `TAZ` line in
`/etc/udev/rules.d/80-printer-names.rules` gets commented out and
SUBSYSTEM=="tty", KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="6403335373035101E171", SYMLINK+="TAZ" # Current
gets appended to the file (and the lines, rearranged). The end result:
`# You can modify it, as long as you keep each rule on a single`
`# line, and change only the value of the NAME= key.`
`#`
`# Last modified by Ubuntourist <ubuntourist@hacdc.org> 2019.01.21 (kjc) `
`#`
`# 2019.01.21 KJC - Updated the serial number of the TAZ to our current beastie`
`#`
`#SUBSYSTEM=="tty", KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="6403636363835110D101", SYMLINK+="TAZ"      # Oldest`
<span style="color:#7f0000; background:#d0d0d0;">`#SUBSYSTEM=="tty", KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="640363534303516070A1", SYMLINK+="TAZ"      # Older (Julia's)`</span>
<span style="color:#007f00; background:#ffffd0; font-weight:bold;">`SUBSYSTEM=="tty",  KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="6403335373035101E171", SYMLINK+="TAZ"      # Current`</span>
`SUBSYSTEM=="tty",  KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="64032373833351906091", SYMLINK+="ROSTOCK"`
`SUBSYSTEM=="tty",  KERNEL=="ttyACM?", ATTRS{serial}=="7403431393835160C070", SYMLINK+="MINI"`
Reboot (because I'm too lazy to figure out which service(s) I need to
restart) and done! I hope.
[Category: 3D Printers](Category:_3D_Printers "wikilink")

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2018.01.25
Hack-a-day offered a project
\[<https://hackaday.com/2017/12/26/fast-3d-printing-with-raspberry-pi-but-not-how-you-think/>,
Fast 3D Printing with Raspberry Pi ??? But Not How You Think\]. However,
it describes how to do stuff via OctoPi (child of OctoPrint), which we
don't want to use. This led to the question ["Any way to divorce Klipper
from Octo\*?"](https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/138) and
also ["Klipper as
daemon"](https://www.freelists.org/post/klipper/Klipper-as-daemon,1)
## [Installation](https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/docs/Installation.md)
Most of our machines use the [Atmega
AVR](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmel_AVR)
[2560](http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/atmega2560) Rambo board.
But we'll start with the Aden rebuild which uses the [Atmega
AVR](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmel_AVR)
[644p](http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/atmega644p). Both are 16
MHz. So, select the proper microprocessor and speed in the
**menuconfig** step below.
`   $ make menuconfig`
`   $ make`
`     Build Kconfig config file`
`     Creating symbolic link out/board`
`     Compiling out/src/sched.o`
`     Compiling out/src/command.o`
`     Compiling out/src/basecmd.o`
`     Compiling out/src/debugcmds.o`
`     Compiling out/src/gpiocmds.o`
`     Compiling out/src/stepper.o`
`     Compiling out/src/endstop.o`
`     Compiling out/src/adccmds.o`
`     Compiling out/src/spicmds.o`
`     Compiling out/src/pwmcmds.o`
`     Compiling out/src/avr/main.o`
`     Compiling out/src/avr/timer.o`
`     Compiling out/src/avr/gpio.o`
`     Compiling out/src/avr/watchdog.o`
`     Compiling out/src/avr/serial.o`
`     Building out/compile_time_request.o`
`   Version: v0.5.0-108-g1b3ef8a-20180125_195156-hostname`
`     Linking out/klipper.elf`
`     Creating hex file out/klipper.elf.hex`
It has been suggested that socat may help debug stuff...
`   $ sudo apt install socat`